Into the heart of old Batangas

There is no better way to experience the historic grandeur of Batangas than to visit the heritage town of Taal. The best way to start the trip: a trek up its namesake and the most famous landmark of the province, the diminutive but deadly Taal volcano, as I did on a quiet morning some months ago.

The island volcano sat peacefully in the middle of Taal Lake, a picture of innocence that belied its violent eruptions in the past. In the distance, the ghostly outline of Mount Maculot seemed like a Chinese painting in the haze of dawn. Birds circled above the surface of the lake, breaking the smooth calm as they swooped down to catch their prey. The 30-minute boat ride from the town of Talisay to the island volcano was refreshing, the breeze invigorating on a sunny day. In the island, horses are the principal means of transportation, and most visitors are gently urged to get on one of the creatures to reach the upper rim of the volcanic crater. The narrow trail was slippery as the soil had loosened in many places, but I found out the trick was simply to crouch low when the horse was climbing, and to straighten up when it was trotting downhill or on level ground. Those were the instructions from my 17-year old guide, who had been leading visitors to the crater for the last three years. The volcano’s previous eruptions have created a lake within its crater, which is what most tourists come to see on the island. Having seen this view from the plane countless times, I found it fascinating to see the crater lake up close for the first time. One of the guides pointed to a wisp of smoke coming out of the slope on the left, the only reminder that we were standing on an active volcano. All residents in the island maintain houses in the lakeshore towns, where they scurry for cover whenever the alert level is up. From the sleepy town of Talisay on the northern end, a scenic drive going halfway around Taal Lake will take you to the town of Taal on the southern side. The uphill climb towards Tagaytay and downhill cruise in the general direction of Lemery in Batangas shows various angles of the volcano, but just in case, have the barf bags ready when the twists and turns of the road get too much for those with queasy tummies. Heritage Town If northern Luzon has Vigan, southern Luzon boasts of Taal when it comes to ancestral homes that hark back to a bygone era. Indeed, old houses are the main attraction in the town of Taal, with many still being used as residences until today. Most of the two-storey structures, typically made of stone on the ground floor and wood on the second level, are clustered around the town hall. Their main features include capiz windows on ledges supported by wooden balusters, wide staircases, and massive indoor posts. The stately homes evoke the lifestyle of landed gentry during colonial times, and while some are fading into old glory, others have been turned into public landmarks. For its historic value, the house of Marcela Agoncillo, who sewed the first Philippine flag in 1898 assisted by her daughter and a niece of national hero Jose Rizal, is a must-see in Taal. An exhibit of flags from the days of the Philippine revolution against Spain adorns the lower half of the structure, while family heirlooms donated by her youngest daughter to the government are preserved on the upper floor and basement. Built in the 1700s, the house has withstood the elements, but it may not survive the ravages of time if its maintenance remains shoddy. The Agoncillo house is now managed by the National Historical Institute, which also takes care of the sprawling abode of lawyer and rebel commander Leon Apacible. Like many houses in Taal, it was one of the meeting places of revolutionaries in the 19th century. The well-preserved architecture and furnishings are classic examples of art deco design, and it is heartening to note that its caretakers have kept the place tidy. Among the items that caught my attention were the pakakak or noisemaker that once alerted townsfolk to approaching enemies, and the huge wooden tub propped against a door, covering more than half of it. On the lower level, ask the guide to show you the 1882 photograph that shows Leon with classmate Jose Rizal as art students. On the religious front, Taal is known for the 400-year old image of Our Lady of Caysasay, which is said to be miraculous and attracts devotees from many parts of the country. Caysasay is the local term for kingfisher, a common sight in the village where the six-inch statue of the Virgin Mary was fished out of the Pansipit River in 1603. The image is enshrined in the church that bears her name. In the nearby woods, a crumbling stone arch stands above a spring that is believed to have healing powers. The bamboo gate leading to the well was locked, but fortunately, a small girl selling candles was there to tell me stories about the miracles attributed to its waters.

Interior of Taal's historic basilica.

A replica of Our Lady of Caysasay is found in the Taal basilica, an imposing stone structure built on top of a hill. Inside, steel chandeliers hang delicately from the arched ceiling. On the right side near the altar, a canopied pulpit brings to mind history lessons about friars admonishing the Catholic faithful in the distant past. An inscription near the front door reveals that the basilica, dedicated to the town’s patron St. Martin of Tours, was built in 1755. A century later, the church was renovated after it was destroyed by the 1849 earthquake. Rising majestically from the town center, the church’s location and columned façade reminded me vaguely of Sacre Coeur atop Montmartre in Paris. But the early morning traffic soon dispelled the notion, as chaos reigned in the church grounds when students in a nearby school started streaming in. Visitors may be disappointed not to see Taal volcano from the town that bears its name, but a 20-minute drive to adjacent San Nicolas municipality solves this problem. It is a side trip worth taking, as the ruins of the original Taal basilica or lumang simbahan can still be found near the lake shore. Only the outer walls, dating back to 1575 and destroyed in the 1754 eruption of Taal volcano, remain of what must have been a grand edifice. Chunks of coral wedged into the massive stone walls are a clear reminder that Taal lake used to be connected to Balayan Bay through the Pansipit River. Once the lifeline that linked the lake to the genteel settlement of old houses in Taal, Pansipit River has since slowed down to a trickle in the most congested parts of town, lamented long-time resident Dindo Montenegro. A touch of nobility Proud of their rich Tagalog heritage, hotel owners have been injecting a unique Batangas touch in many lodging houses around Taal. This is good news for travelers who seek an authentic feel to a place. Club Balai Isabel, on the shores of lake Taal in Talisay town, is replete with heavy wooden furniture and stained glass panels that conjure images of stately houses and old churches. Visitors can relax in the infinity pool while enjoying the view of Taal lake and the volcano. Fruit trees bring a rural feel to the sprawling compound, adding to the air of quiet and calm that prevails in the resort. But there’s a touch of the exotic as well -- the pocket gardens with gushing waterfalls seem to be influences from Bali, while the colored lamps with ornate metal work must have drawn inspiration from Morocco. Along the diversion road leading to Taal’s urban center, the Casa Cecilia Heritage Hotel stands out with its Spanish-Mediterranean architecture. The sweeping staircase leads to seven rooms on the second floor. Designed for banquets and weddings, the boutique hotel has a patio overlooking the garden gazebo where couples can say their vows. Touches of Batangas include the capiz-shell dividers in the restaurant and the unceasing gaiety of the staff. In the town proper, budget travelers will be delighted with Casa Punzalan, an ancestral home that has been converted into a lodging house run by the Taal Heritage Foundation. It offers three fan rooms and two air-con rooms. With its four-poster beds, wide staircase, and expansive views of the Taal basilica, the pension is the perfect choice for culture vultures seeking to experience the elegance of 18th century Batangas. How to age gracefully One of the charms of Casa Punzalan are the retired school teachers who take turns daily as volunteers at the pension. All members of the Southern Luzon Association of Museums, the ladies don their Filipiniana best for special occasions and guests. Their grace, cheer, and genteel manners show that it does not take much to relive the glory of Taal. With creativity and concerted effort, the town can still reclaim its birthright. Unfortunately, the noise and air pollution from the infernal tricycles and buses plying the narrow streets are destroying the old town ambience of Taal. Many old houses have been torn down and replaced with garishly painted structures of dubious Mediterranean influence. Most of the remaining ones seem to be in dire need of repair, which could be the reason why Taal did not make it to the World Heritage Site listing, unlike Vigan. On the map, Taal is right in the middle of Batangas, a constant reminder that once upon a glorious era, the town used to be the capital of the province. With urbanization growing all around it, the task of reviving Taal’s former grandeur may be daunting, but local leaders can start with simple solutions. Designating vehicle-free pedestrian zones, for instance, or rerouting public transportation into one-way streets can go a long way towards public appreciation of Taal as the center of history and culture in Batangas. For now, there is hope in the determination of old-timers like Glenda of Casa Cecilia to shun the bustling scenes in neighboring towns and instead, preserve the quiet dignity of Taal. “We want it that way. Here, we still know everybody," she says. My journey ended in the Montenegro ancestral home, where I gazed up the solid walls of the Taal basilica, awed at what it must be like growing up in the shadow of a centuries-old church. I wonder how many future generations of Taal’s children can still enjoy such an experience, and take pride in the town’s unique heritage. GMANews.tv MORE ABOUT TAAL Batangas beef and Tapang Taal Skip the ubiquitous bulalo and lomi joints scattered along the highway – there is much better fare to be had in traditional Taal food. From Dainty to Deadly: Taal’s Arts and Crafts Delicate hand-sewn embroidery and the manufacture of balisong or fan knives are local traditions that continue to thrive in Batangas.